On that colorful afternoon, we waded through oceans of crimson, indigo and umber-brown leaves in the forest around the Gösting ruins, as if we were battling the roiling sea in a small sailboat. The fading afternoon light wallpapered the background with a piercing blue, clear and devoid of any humidity. I was struck by how brilliant the colors were that day. At the same time, it reminded me a little of the many Indian summers that I could marvel at every year in northern Minnesota.